Adam Ondra started the climb swiftly, beating 13 out of total 32 pitches in the first two days. Due to high temperatures, he climbed mostly at night those days. After a day of rest in his portaledge, when heat was replaced by snow and poor weather, the most difficult and the most unlucky pitch was to be climbed on the fourth day.

Adam Ondra is one of the most successful and decorated competition climbers ever. He’s sent harder routes than anyone else in the world. He’s put up dozens if not hundreds of second ascents in days or hours or flashes that other top climbers took days or months or years. A dominant competitor herself, she placed 25th in the 2019 Lead World Championships, and in 2017, she ticked three 8c’s (5.14b). But right from the start of the film, it’s clear how much of her own climbing she has sacrificed to support Adam. They’re out cragging, and Ondra falls on a 9b. He screams, “I am so weak!”.

Of primary importance is the helmet-top impact test, which drops a 5-kilogram weight (called a striker) with a 50mm-radius blunt business end onto the helmet’s top from a height of 2 meters. The resulting force on the neck’s load sensor can’t exceed 8 kiloNewtons (kN) for the UIAA and 10kN for the CE. “Hold on!” you say.

Take all their advice with a grain of salt, though. They are the best in the world and training exactly as they train is likely too much for us mere mortals. Video: Training Day of Adam Ondra; Video: Climb Like Chris Sharma: His Tips, Part 1; Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight and Crowdfunding; Alex Megos’ Single Best Training Tip
Alex tested at 132% of body weight = 57kg x 1.32 = 75kg Adam “tested” at 112% of body weight = 68kg x 1.12 = 76kg. I understand that the issue re: climbing performance is strength:body weight, but how do you guys conclude from your data that Alex has stronger fingers when Adam is able to support more weight? . 325 351 309 50 335 17 194 26 262

how much does adam ondra weight